An integral part of the adventure-mythos we’re living is the magic of Morocco in general, and of (the master musicians of) Joujouka in particular. Bowles, Burroughs, Gysin et al all formulated fragments that have gradually morphed into a tangible totality. A vital myth indeed.
And yes, there was that LP of course: “Brian Jones presents the pipes of Pan.” The ultimate classic that led to many a collaboration between the master musicians and similars from other countries and cultures.
So you can’t really go more Beatnik bucket list than actually going to Joujouka proper. They celebrate the solstice, they celebrate the great god Pan, they play incredibly psychedelic music, and also make great food. What’s not to like?
After a few preparatory days in Marrakech, we headed north towards Tanger. Then onwards to the Rif mountains and the very village of Joujouka.
Some fifty guests had arrived for the celebration; at least half of them from Japan. We made many new friends, and also met at least one of our dear Patreon patrons. What a treat! Nothing beats “in vivo”! (Hi, Hamilton!)
Over three consecutive days, the master musicians and their families housed and cooked for us. We were blessed to stay at the house of Bou Jeloud (Pan) himself. The village elder (at a spry 75 years or thereabouts) who assumes the role of Bou Jeloud is a true gentleman; hospitable and courteous, as is his family. There is even a room in his house called “Café Bou Jeloud,” where the assembled can enjoy mint tea, a soda, and the local specialities while looking at photos from the master musicians’ various tours and concerts.
In the afternoons and evenings, a small ensemble (of nine musicians) sang, played drums, string instruments and occasionally flutes while still in “civilian” clothes. After the communal midnight meal had been thoroughly enjoyed and then cleared out, the musicians came back to their stage dressed in their very finest ceremonial village apparel. The fourteen man ensemble now presented drums and those magical pipes. And… wow!
As soon as the very first sound was heard, frenzy set in. It’s just impossible to sit still to this music. High pitched frequencies, deep heart-beat drums, multi-layers of weird syncopations that seem to continually increase in intensity… People jumped up, danced, got into a trance, while the musicians themselves got more and more into it.
Village boys dressed up as anonymous girls/boy-girls/girl-boys blurred the boundaries between the concepts of “trans” and “trance.” In a way, their dancing became a litmus test of the intensity of the music. If the kids went into frenzied trances, the musicians got even more inspirational fuel, and vice versa. Reciprocal ecstasy spinning ever faster through the star-lit mountain night.
And seemingly out of nowhere came Bou Jeloud. Dressed up in a suit made of goat skin, and with a goat’s head attached to his headgear, the old human man was now suddenly a timeless being; a proper god. Pan is alive and very well in Morocco. Bou Jeloud pranced around aggressively and chastised musicians, kids, and local women with twigs. It was terrifying and delightfully humorous at the same time. Being smacked is a blessing, and was originally believed to increase/improve fecundity.
A bonfire was lit while the music was still going on. Bou Jeloud danced manically around it and kept chasing people. What we were witnessing could equally well have taken place two thousand years ago. This was time travel in the best possible way, and to the best possible soundtrack.
After three days of ecstatic partying and dancing (and some nice rest and relaxation as well), it was time to leave the timeless space and head back to the lovely hustle and bustle of Tanger.
There were of course many other adventures and pilgrimages during this grand tour. For instance, visiting the Paul Bowles museum/wing of the American Legation in Tanger. But we’ll have to return to this at another time.
As always, we recorded a lot of cut-ups on both audio and video. You’ll be the first to know when they’re out there. But now, it’s time to sort out all of our impressions of the Moroccan adventure/pilgrimage more in detail. Bou Jeloud blessed us with one of his twig-whips. This will now be centrally placed at a suitable altar at Vanessa & Carl HQ. The beautiful dream continues.
